First things first: I'm in the home stretch. According to schedule (remember this is India, so that is really only a guideline), I depart New Delhi Airport to fly back to the states in a frighteningly short twelve days! Of course, knowing me, I'm going to try to cram as many things as possible into those remaining days, including the biggest Sikh festival of the year (Baisakhi) this weekend, with many concerts, interviews with several of the venerable ragis whose contact info was provided to me by my friend Sarbpreet, reviewing all the ragas I've learned, and working on one more as a crowning achievement that I can perorm in gurdwaras when I return to the States, shipping my harmonium, giving parting gifts and saying my thanks in the homes and villages I've been hosted, taking in a few more concerts in Delhi, and possibly a quick trip back to Ajmer, to the Chisti shrine there, to experience the qawwali first hand with a wonderful scholar to whom I was introduced. Oh yeah, and also trying to fit all my stuff in the pack-up.
With that busy a schedule, you might think I'm trying to compensate for something. You know, a last minute rush when I feel that time is running out and I haven't done anything. To be honest there is a little of that, but it's also generated by the insanity of how big and complex and infinitely diverse and interesting this country feels. The truth is, I have been taking in a lot. Christi, Kirsten and I logged over 80 hours of domestic travel in 20 days (that doesn't count their international flights) to see places as diverse as the beaches of Goa, an elephant and tiger preserve, Himalayan mountain villages, the Taj, the sacred ghats of the Ganges, and more. It was a great experience, marked by lots of shared joys and frustrations (which was nice for me to share them in my own language). We didn't sleep very much, and I think it left us all with a bit of a headache/ear/sinus infection.
Initially, I was a little depressed to be left 'all alone' again in this big country. But within a day, I began to rediscover all the fascinating aspects of life here - this time in Delhi, with an exhibition on Sufi calligraphy, a long conversation with my friend Dhruv about music and society, a fascinating lecture on the sociology of Sikhism, and tomorrow a visit with Sarbpreet (who happens to be in India) to the man who was instrumental in introducing notation to kirtan and saved a lot of the older traditions from dying out around Partition. Of course, I will be glad to get back - my hopes also rose as Christi and Kirsten described their anticipation for a sandwich, salad, glass of wine (things hard to come by, even in Delhi), and the sense of being truly clean which is lost each time you walk out on the dusty street here. I can't yet do the post about "what was INdia like?" or "How has it changed you" or "what are you going to do now", so don't hold your breath. However, I will probably see many of you in the coming weeks and months, and look forward to sharing the experience, as it is possible and you are interested.
Onwards into the home stretch!
Kurt
1 comment:
Kurt - I am glad you got to a computer cafe that enabled you to post this on your blog since i know you are not back in Amritsar with your own computer.
I hope you have checked your email as I had a chance run-in with Dale Fleck who may have had an insight into your little issue with sinuses and the altitude you experienced near the Himilayas.
Sounds like you will be experiencing quite a bit of exciting things in these last two weeks - and you will draw more from these events because of the background and baseline you now have.
The summary of your experience you have given in this post is, for me, quite reminiscent of that 7-hour movie by Louis Malle in the 1970's - "L'Inde Fantome" - which documents not only the amazing diversity and complexity of Indian life and society, but also where the ridiculous and the sublime co-exist, often in the same town square at the same time. In our call with Christi last nite (she had just arrived from her 26-hours of flying Delhi-Bombay-Seattle-Portland)she said the experience was absolutely memorable and a total blend of challenges, surprises, kindnesses, struggles, curiosities, and joys. I am sure she will walk back into work today a somewhat different person.
I suspect you will not really know the answers to the questions you pose in your message for quite a while - you will be months digesting, synthesizing and processing these experiences - mostly subconciously - and in the end you will retain what is good and wise and letting go of the rest.
I can bank on one thing when you get back - you will rejoice in your ability to take long hot showers - at the Broadwater for example.
Yesterday morning it was 24 degrees here and I had to scrape the frost off of my windshield - perhaps for the last time this spring. Portland will welcome you with her cool, damp arms - so enjoy the warmth while you have it.
Long day ahead at work - so I will sign off and will pray that your last 12 days put the frosting on the cake of your India chapter - putting finer points on your understanding and appreciation for the people, the music, the landscape, the deep soul that is India.
Hugs, Dad
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